What is ROCK Climbing
MMG ROCK Climber Team
Location for ROCK Climbing
Type of Rock
ROCK Climb Grading
MMG Mental & Fitness
Warming Up is EVERYTHNG!
Biology of Climbing
Fall Factor Explained
MMG Rock Climb Competition
in Gua Musang
  Rock Climb Place - Tebung

  Fall Factor Explained
Fall Factor = Length of Fall / Length of Rope
Your life depends on the stretch of the rope...
Shock load is the result of three factors; The nature of the rope, the fall factor, and the weight of the falling object. That is you.
Static rope doesn't stretch enough....
Slings and runners are just like static rope...
This is worth saying again:
For purposes of comparison, here are the UIAA limits;
Meanwhile up at the 'biner....
Physics isn't our friend in a fall. The same mechanical advantage we use in pulleys works against us when we're on the end of a rope. Because at the point where the rope returns, normally a carabiner, the force of the fall is increased by approximately 66% (it would be doubled except for the friction of the rope against the metal).

Now apply that same math to a static rope, The Factor 1.9 fall, with is normal shock force of 18 kN, becomes a shock force of 30 kN (multiply 18 kN by 1.66) In this case, you couldn't even count on a stout tree. And it wouldn't matter if the anchor held, because something else would undoubtedly fail."

SOURCE from RockClimbing.com
Copyright by MMG Adventure Team